Dozens of people have E-mailed me asking how to improve the performance in their Isuzu vehicles. This is a guide to tuning your vehicle.Index
Everybody keeps leaving me behind, I want to keep up with everybody else.
An internal combustion engine is nothing more than a large petrolium powered air pump.
To make it work better all you have to do is make its job easier by improving efficiency.
To improve the efficiency of an air pump, you simply make modifications so that air flows through the engine more easily. The greater you make the capacity of air flow, the more freely the pump will work, the more power and torque the engine will produce.
Suggestions for a mild buildup: Intake Performance drop in air filter +3-5 HP Ram air intake Hot air induction pipe system +1-7 HP Note: Tested with the hood open Cold air induction pipe system +8-13 HP Ported mass air flow sensor Oversized MAF sensor MAF to MAP conversion Electronic air fuel ratio adjuster Ported throttle body +5-7 HP Ported air plenum Ported/Extrudehoned intake manifold +3 HP Fuel System for EFI Remember: Fuel system upgrades beyond maintenance and restoration to factory specifications are not justified unless air intake modifications are suficient enough to cause the engine to run lean. This depends a great deal on the safety margin or cushion that the manufacturer designed into the system. This varies considerably from model to model. Clean and calibrate fuel injectors Upgrade to higher flow rate injectors Adjustable fuel pressure regulator Fuel management system Larger fuel pump Larger diameter fuel piping Fuel System for Carburated Install larger carb jets Upgrade to multi barrel, progressive carb, or multiple carbs Valvetrain Performance cam or regrind +5-14 HP Performance valve springs and retainers Adjustible cam sprocket(s) +3-18 HP Ignition Performance plug wires Performance spark plugs +1-4 HP Advance ignition timing Performance ignition coil Supplimental electronic ignition system +1-3 HP Computer Performance EPROM chip or control module reprogram +7-20 HP TPS Recalibrator or other piggyback unit Exhaust Performance header +4-12 HP Ported/Extrudehoned exhaust manifold +3 HP High flow catalytic converter +5 HP Larger diameter cat-back exhaust system +4-12 HP Turbo style or high flow muffler +1-2 HP if installed on stock exhaust piping Cooling Low temp thermostat Oil cooler or larger oil cooler Larger radiator Supplimental electric cooling fan Pulleys Underdrive pulleys +5-15 HP Drivetrain Aluminum Flywheel +12-20 HP For Turbo owners: A reboost kit +35-40 HP Bleed valve on the turbo system Upgrade intercooler piping Blow off valve Adjustable wastegate Install larger turbo Install larger intercooler +10-18 HP Ported/Extrudehoned exhaust manifold +3 HP Custom welded pipe exhaust manifold (these tend to crack from heat stress) Larger diameter down pipe +17 HP Fuel enrichment system Fuel management system Additional fuel injectors and controller Suggestions for the more adventurous: Engine work Racing engine rebuild Stroker kit Ported cylinder head Larger diameter valves High compression pistons Auxilliary oil cooler Forced induction A low pressure turbocharger or supercharger system on a stock motor +20-100 HP A high pressure turbocharger or Supercharger system with engine rebuild to turbo specifications +75-250 HP Nitrous Oxide Enough said +40-120 HP Engine swap Put in a bigger engine
Clutch Performance clutch Synthetic transmition lubricant Stainless braided clutch hose DOT 4 hydraulic fluid in clutch resevoir Rear End / Transaxle Limited slip or torque-biasing differential Synthetic gear lubricant Totota pickup truck rear end transplant
Performance shocks or struts Coilover dampers Larger diameter anti-sway bars Stiffer springs or stiffer and lower springs Very few people who cut their springs don't end up damaging their car. Strut tower braces Urethane bushings Plus one or plus two tire and wheel combinations Larger diameter wheel with lower profile tire for same overall diameter of tread surface Light weight racing wheels and slicks for track use
Performance pads Stainless steel braided brake hoses Dot 4 brake fluid Larger diameter rotors and larger calipers (Big brake kit) Cross drilled or slotted rotors ?????? There are a good number of knoledgable people who state that cross drilling and slotting rotors does nothing to enhance cooling more than ten degrees over a 200-300 degree range. Among these are Steve at SMC (he makes cross drilled rotors, telling this to his customers costs him sales, but he's an honest guy and I believe him). Cross drilled and slotted rotors do reduce squeal by allowing the pad to pump the dust produced by braking through the hole or slot as opposed to floating the pad on a thin layer of dust. Aside from this benifit, they are purely cosmetic. Slotted rotors eat pads quickly and are most appropriate for use on race cars.
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